Lack of concentricity is usually caused by poor barrel threads or brake threads that are not perfectly concentric. Cheaper American barrels have this problem and most European AK variants are notorious for this because of poor quality control. That is why most AK brakes have a much larger brake exit hole to accommodate for this. Another cause of poor concentricity is imperfect brake threads.
In order to ensure perfect concentricity, the threads must be cut with brake perfectly aligned, best done while brake is still in lathe. However, most brakes are cut with inexpensive manufacturing process by cutting threads with a single pass course die, similar to what a pipefitter uses.
The best way to ensure perfect concentricity is multiple pass single contact threading but this requires better machinery and more machine time, read more costly.
Myth: Brakes wear out. Some brakes with thin gauge metal are easily damaged and do wear out with time. Also those with small slits or ports tend to get fouled and self-destruct or decrease accuracy overtime. Uncoated Titanium brakes although much lighter and stronger than steel will spark with hot loads and eventually the bore will widen. This will NOT cause brake to fail, but only to minimally loose effectiveness over time.
One has to shoot LOTS of loads to notice a difference. This is not a factor for most Titanium shooters. Cheap brakes with mystery metal like many copies from China can catastrophically fail in a dangerous way.
Avoid these. However, Brakes with enough beef, with hardened high quality steels properly coated will outlast you or your kit. If you are a bolt action guy and want long range accuracy without beating up your shoulder, you will likely want a radial design.
If you are semiauto guy who puts in a lots of heavy rounds at short range, a reverse gill or radial will work for you. If you are concerned about perceived operator blast, choose radial.
If you want the best combination of all factors choose a radial design. If you are a tactical guy or want to see your impacts thru scope pick a brake that returns to zero rapidly and has minimal muzzle rise, like radial design. Or if you anticipate combat or self-defense, and failure is not an option, this will usually mean a heavy duty beefy radial design with large non fouling ports. Cart 0. Competitive long range shooters tend to favor muzzle brakes, as the redirected gas and flash allow them to maintain a better sight picture.
Three gun shooters like muzzle brakes as they can allow for faster follow-up shots and a reduced recoil impulse. A compensator is a type of muzzle device that works in a different way than a muzzle brake. Most compensators divert gases and muzzle blast in a downward fashion to keep the firearm from rising during the firing sequence. One of the earliest compensator designs was the Cutts Compensator found on the Thompson submachine gun.
The 45 ACP round, while fired on full auto, would cause the muzzle to rise due to recoil and the Cutts Compensator helped keep the guns on target. The same principle carried over to competitive pistol shooting in the late s. The ports on a compensator are carefully angled and machined to force the pistol downward. This allowed competitive pistol shooters to fire rapidly and accurately, scoring multiple hits on the same target.
Eventually, the compensator made its way back to rifles, primarily semi automatic modern sporting rifles MSR , as the virtue of decreased muzzle rise was seen as an asset on the competitive shooting circuit. One type of compensator that caught the attention of shooters was the linear compensator, which directed the noise and expanding gasses forward and away from the shooter. While it did not suppress the sound in any way like a silencer, this redirection of sound reduced concussion and the perceived decibel level, making for a more pleasant shooting experience.
When it comes to using a suppressor for your firearm, the muzzle brake and the compensator are typically trumped. A silencer acts like the ultimate muzzle brake or compensator because it contains the burning gases and muzzle blast within the body of the can. Most suppressors reduce felt recoil, muzzle climb, and most importantly noise and concussion. The use of a muzzle brake or a compensator plays more of a role when the suppressor is not mounted and the weapon is being fired unsuppressed.
If the shooter is more concerned about recoil control, the muzzle brake may be the way to go. If recoil is not a factor but controlling muzzle rise or flip is an issue, then something like a linear compensator could be the answer.
However, there is another factor to consider when shooting a suppressor and using a muzzle device where a muzzle brake may be the clear winner. Every time a suppressor is removed and reattached, the point of aim can change. Upon exiting the barrel, the forces and gases escape out of the top and sides of the muzzle brake. The force coming out of the top of the muzzle reduces the amount of force pushing the barrel up, while the force coming out of the sides of the muzzle helps the firearm stay centered after firing.
Not only will they assist you when shooting, but they will add some serious attitude to your firearm. It also allows recoil to be reduced from side to side in order to ensure you can quickly reacquire your target, a necessity for many shooters. An additional benefit from this design feature is that you will experience minimum dust signature when firing from the prone position, making our high-quality muzzle brakes perfect for long-range target shooting.
While we do see reduced recoil and better aim acquisition with muzzle brakes, there is a time and place for them. Adding a muzzle break to your firearm will increase the sound signature experienced when firing. Make sure you communicate with those around you when firing with a muzzle brake, and always wear proper ear protection when firing.
Competition regulations depend on where you are shooting. Some allow muzzle brakes while others outlaw them in competition.
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